"The cure for anything is salt water––sweat, tears, or the sea."
Isak Dinesen

LOG OF THE SALTWATER PEOPLE HISTORICAL SOCIETY



About Us

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San Juan Islands, Washington State, United States
A society formed in 2009 for the purpose of collecting, preserving, celebrating, and disseminating the maritime history of the San Juan Islands and northern Puget Sound area. Check this log for tales from out-of-print publications as well as from members and friends. There are over 300, often long entries, on a broad range of maritime topics; there are search aids at the bottom of the log. Please ask for permission to use any photo posted on this site. Thank you.

27 March 2015

❖ In the Early Morning Dew ❖

Piling Busters Yearbook 1952
Stories of Towboating by Towboat Men
SKAGIT QUEEN
116866
BUILT IN 1898, WEST SEATTLE FOR CAP H. H. McDONALD,
FOR SKAGIT RIVER NAVIGATION AND TRADING.

125.5' x 25.7' x 4.6'
318 tons.
Original photo from the archives of the S.P.H.S©
"At the tender age of 17-years, I had taken a job as a Quartermaster on the old SKAGIT QUEEN with Capt. McDonald, Sr. On this particular trip we were headed from Seattle and way-points to Mt. Vernon, and after leaving Utsalady [Camano Island], we headed for the Skagit River, and right into pea soup fog and Cap. said, "Boy, go down on the fore deck and keep a good look out, and sing out if you see anything. Being a dutiful "boy" I took this job seriously (as I should) and after some time, all at once, a black patch appeared, and "boy" shouted in the best seafaring style, something dead ahead "sir" and Cap came back with, "what is it?" By this time I could see it was a flock of ducks; and called back, "it is ducks, Sir"  back from the pilot house came this reply, "are they swimming or walking?
This actually happened."
Al Smiley

20 March 2015

❖ ROCHE HARBOR BUILT ON LIMESTONE ❖

Many folks interested in regional history have written about the limestone at the hideway of Roche Harbor, on San Juan Island. 
Here is Day 72 from June Burn's 100 Days in the San Juans that she wrote  on contract with the Seattle P-I in 1946, as she and Farrar sailed their little San Juanderer through the archipelago.
Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, 1948.
Just two years after June Burn publisher this article.
Photographer unknown.
Original photo from the archives of the S.P.H.S.©
"Roche Harbor is known for its great hill of lime rock and the purity of the lime that is burned from it. It is known for the wonderful flower garden in front of the old Hotel de Haro, and the McMillin family, who have managed the company ever since there was a lime works here. People have heard of and many have seen the unique copper roofed tomb where the McMillin ashes are buried.
      All over this northern part of the archipelago, people have sold barge loads of wood to the lime company, or sold eggs and milk and fish and fresh meat to them, or have broken rock for them. They gave Farrar the first job he had when we came out here to homestead Sentinel. People have been born and grown up and married and had grandchildren still in the service of the Roche Harbor Lime Co. In its heyday, the elder McMillin used to give great annual harvest festivals that were three days of eating and jousting as in ancient times, really. He did love to do things dramatically!
      There is a novel to be written about this village and company. Its story cannot ever be told in all its color and drama except in a book. No mere column could hope to touch it.
      As you go in to the harbor, past Pearl Island, you get a fine sweeping view of the lime rock quarry, very high on its hill to the right; big piles of white waste––the cleanest waste any manufacturer has. The lime kilns, next against a hill where the clematis grows, then an old warehouse in which the cooperage used to be.
      The store and wharf come out in a long row into the harbor, but grass grows now in the eaves and the old three-masted schooner no longer stands there waiting for its load.
   
      To the left and above the store, are the hotel and the manager's house; below them, the garden of roses and carnations, of gladioli and an arbor of wisteria with vines as thick as Scarlett's waist; at their left the windowy pink house where Paul McMillin now lives.
Gardens at Roche Harbor,
undated.
S.P.H.S.©
      The schoolhouse stands on its own knoll above the road.
      Swinging around to the left, as you enter, the company houses go in rows, most of them now empty. But they may all be full again, sometime, when production gets under way again,, although most of the people who work at Roche Harbor nowadays live at Friday harbor, with a bus to bring them to work in the mornings.
      Roche Harbor is famous as the largest lime works in Washington and also for the fact that this is the purest lime to be found anywhere. It is over 98 % calcium carbonate.
      McLellan, in the scientist's guarded way, calls this a "large accumulation of limestone," but one of the company managers once told me that there's lime here for a hundred years. This land was bought from the Verriers, who moved to Orcas.
Abandoned limestone quarries and kilns,
 Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, WA.

Photo by artist Parker McAllister dated Jan. 1959.
Original photo from the archives of S.P.H.S.©
      Here comes the milk truck. Mrs. Martin unloads her bottles for Roche Harbor. We buy seven quarts. Bottles and cases were shifted on the truck to make room for us and the girls and we set out for English Camp.
      It is a fresh morning, not too hot; the road is graveled. It dips now and then into green woods and yellow fields and then it lifts to overlook blue waters and islands. Finally it turns down to Garrison Bay, where...
We'll be seeing you, June."
   

   

18 March 2015

❖ TOLE MOUR Leaving for the South Pacifc, 1988 ❖

TOLE MOUR
ON 938740
156-ft sparred length
LOD 123-ft. / LWL 101-ft.
Beam 31.6-ft
Draft 13.6-ft
Sail area: 8,500 sq. ft.
Designer: Ewbank, Brooke & Assoc.
Builder: Nichols Brothers, Whidbey Island, WA
TOLE MOUR means 'gift of life and health' in the Marshall Islands and that's what the ship TOLE MOUR hoped to provide the Marshallese people when the floating health facility arrived there mid-December. On 4 October the 156-ft steel ship left Lake Union, Seattle, for the first leg of her journey to the South Pacific. The $2.5 million tall ship, launched in 1987 on Whidbey Island, and its 11-member sailing crew, were a part of the nonprofit Marimed Foundation, that aimed to bring American healthcare expertise to the South Pacific. The foundation was begun in 1984 by David Higgins and his wife, Dr. Lonny Higgins. With stops planned in Portland, San Francisco and Honolulu, the ship expected to take six weeks to get to the islands.
TOLE MOUR
There she goes,
headed out to the Pacific Ocean

1988 Photo from S.P.H.S.©
For an update on the tall ship TOLE MOUR and her life in higher learning in the Channel Islands of warm California, click here.

16 March 2015

❖ LAST LOAD OF TIN ARRIVES ❖ 1955

COASTAL RAMBLER
Alaska Steamship Co motorship, 1955.
Seattle, WA.

Photo from the archives of S.P.H.S.©
The last load of tin 'for an indefinite period' from the US Tin Corporation's mine at Lost River, AK, arrived in Seattle  in 1955.
      The shipment, aboard the Alaska Steamship Co's motorship COASTAL RAMBLER, was 150 barrels of tin concentrate totaling 240,000 pounds. It was destined for a smelter in Texas City, TX.
      The Lost River mine is on the Seward Peninsula, northwest of Nome. It has been the only tin mine operating under the United States flag.
      Most of the perishable goods and material incident to the mine's operation were removed. The mine itself and the remaining goods and machinery were left in charge of a caretaker.


10 March 2015

❖ BLUE WATER BOAT: Schooner PRIMROSE IV ❖ John Alden's Number 111


PRIMROSE IV
ON 223224
Sail area; 1,305 sq. ft. Lines drawn in 1919

show a lot of similarity to the early Malabars.
Displacement of 48,200 pounds.
Tracing by John Alden Crocker.
Courtesy John G. Alden, Inc.
See credit below.
"John Alden's schooner used extensively in northern waters was PRIMROSE IV, design number 111. She became for a time one of the designer's most talked about boats, because in 1927 she won for her young master, Frederick I. Ames, the Cruising Club of America's Blue Water Medal, that has been described as sailing's most coveted award.
PRIMROSE IV
With owner, Frederick I. Ames (top)
and Warwick Thompkins, Sr. on bowsprit
19 May 1928
Photo by Acme, N.Y.
Original photo from the archives of S.P.H.S.©
      PRIMROSE IV was built in 1923 by Rufus Condon at Friendship, ME, for Walter H. Huggins of Boston. She was the second, or "B" boat, built to the 111 design, that was created in 1920. In a sense she was a forerunner to the early Malabars. Like the Malabars, PRIMROSE IV has a gradually curving keel profile with a fair amount of drag. Her beam at the deck is generous forward and aft, while her waterlines are fairly fine forward but full aft. Like the Malabars, she is quite short ended, has a generous sheer, and in general, has the look of a fisherman. Her dimensions are 50.2-ft, by 39 feet 11 inches, by 13-ft x 7.2-ft. Her construction is sturdy, with sawn frames and 1.5-inch planking. She carries about eight tons of ballast, half inside and half outside.
      While under the command of Huggins, PRIMROSE IV sailed in the 1924 Bermuda Race and took second in her class.
      Then she was sold to Frederick Ames, who cruised in the schooner to Labrador a year later and in 1927 sailed her across to England for the Fastnet Race. She was the first American yacht to compete in this rugged event, and she did well, finishing second on corrected time. The heavy weather during that race forced many contestants, including the hard-driven British cutter JOLIE BRISE, to heave-to, but PRIMROSE IV carried on under reduced canvas. Her crew discussed heaving-to, but as yachting reporter Alfred R. Loomis put it, "their discussion outlasted the gale." Ames sailed the schooner back home by way of Iceland, Labrador, and Cape Breton Island, and it was for this 58-day passage, carefully prepared and competently carried out, that he was awarded the Blue Water Medal.
PRIMROSE IV, right of center,
at Thorshaven, 18 May 1928,
en route home to US.

Photo by Acme, N.Y.
Original from the archives of S. P. H. S.©
      The bald-headed rig permits easy handling, although one might be concerned about lack of sail area when racing in light airs. Of course, the schooner was not designed for typical round-the-buoys racing; she was intended for rough waters and strong winds. In contrast with some of Alden's later gaff-rigged schooners, PRIMROSE IV's foresail is fairly small, which facilitates lying to in very heavy weather. During her worst mid-Atlantic gale, the schooner lay-to very successfully under reefed foresail and backed jumbo.
      The arrangements below follows the typical plan used during the days of professional crew, when it was customary to place the galley between the fo'c's'le and the saloon. The owner's cabin aft has its own toilet room, and there is another at the after end of the saloon, with a head for the crew forward. The companionways are off-center on the starboard side, so it might be desirable to heave to on the starboard tack.
      Yachting historian John Parkinson, Jr., has written that Frederick Ames was not only a fearless sailor but also a daring stunt flier whose life was cut short by an airplane accident. No doubt Ame's cruising exploits were considered daring too, but they were carried out with careful seamanship and in almost the safest boat that a yachtsman of that day could ask for."
Text and drawing from John G. Alden and his Yacht Designs, by Robert W. Carrick and Richard Henderson;
published in Camden, ME by International Marine Publishing Co.

More photos coming.